26/07/05 14:22 Filed by Saswat Pattanayak in:
Saswat | Memories
By Saswat Pattanayak
My New York tour this weekend was a
well deserved one. The complexities and
contradictions that map the country are so defined in
this city of countercultures that it’s amazing to
notice them visibly, despite the manufactured
calmness.
The hungry and homeless in Manhattan scrounging for
leftovers in trash, the piles of human defecation and
unattended garbage in New York Central Park, and the
street beggars singing different tunes have always
characterized the city of the Trumps and
Rockefellers.
Ground Zero, my cab driver laughed at us when we
could not figure what to say about the venue my
friend Biren Mohanty from Orissa wanted to check out.
Obviously the driver was either a Muslim or a victim
of post 9/11 racial outbursts. Or both. He did not
even talk to us properly after we showed how much
interested we were in visiting the site. “Do we have
any other noteworthy place close by?” Silence.
The other cab driver, from Punjab, India, clearly
took us to one Indian restaurant over another.
“That’s great food, but too much money,” he pointed
out to Jewel of India, “I will take you to Curry”.
Off we went to the working class restaurant. The rich
Indians and the Whites go to Jewel.
Apart from religion and class, the race equations
were interesting as well. The cheapest bus tours are
conducted by Chinese between DC and NY. And
unfortunately this time, the bus had a mechanical
problem for a couple of minutes. Three co-passengers
who were African Americans burst out with all racial
slurs they could in those 10 minutes of silent
midnight to crack jokes. One passenger while excusing
himself out was shouting “excuse me in English and
every other language I don’t know so that you know..
hehe”. I was wondering if all of them were conscious
of Ghettopoly vs Tsunami or it was just commonplace.
The crash moments of new york bare themselves
everytime we have headed there. Yet that’s the best
city of the country. The multiculturalism has not
been normalized. The city sees the differences,
understands the differences, even celebrates them,
albeit some lacunae here and there. When in a Chinese
restaurant I asked what curry was best for the
dinner, the man answered, “Spicy Chicken Curry in
Indian style”. That’s New York.
Two co-passengers were impressed by my invitation to
them to share our cab in the wee hours of morning. I
said if we all could share our stuffs, we would have
a better community. Off the couple came up with a
flyer to ask us to join them in protesting against
Chinese govt for cracking down on individual
liberties. Missing the whole point, that’s New York
too.
The American political turmoils lend themselves to
the awful representations that they manifest in.
Amidst the billboards at Times square where companies
smoke out billions of dollars every year just for
exhibitions, do we need the poor trenchantly going
hungry? With hundreds of skyscrapers inside the city,
do the homeless need any place else to look for
(incidentally they close down all the public toilets
at 7pm)? Are these people who have tolerated the
administrative indifferences thus far to let the
world note NY as the biggest city ever devised, not
the ones who have worked helluva lot to uphold the
torch of human liberty for the humankind? In their
silence lies the global presence of NY. The mute
statue might just be symbolic!
Tags: Saswat, USA, Capitalism